Saturday, May 10, 2008

Ganges Cremations

Just came back from watching cremations at the edge of the Ganges river. It was really interesting to witness. Firstly, there is no emotion shown at these funerals. Women are not allowed to attend as they are too emotional. The body is carried through the narrow streets on stretchers followed by their male friends and relatives. They take it down to the ghat where there are about 10 fires burning all the time. They burn about 200 hundred bodies a day at this particular ghat. You can stipulate which type of wood should be used on the fire and the cost varies accordingly. The body is placed on a stack of wood and it is up to the son of the deceased to set the fire. It takes about 3 hours for it to burn until the point where they lift the rest of the corpse into the Ganges river. The lower caste people are burned in public while there are special places for those of higher caste, politicians, and military officers.
It is an odd ritual to watch since it is so public, but not emotional. The shroud covering the body burns off quickly so it is obvious what you are viewing fairly early in the process. The ash falling from the air and onto your hair and clothes is that from dead human bodies, but it doesn't really evoke any emotional response. Of course, it is not PC to take pictures so none of you have to worry that I am going to show you the process.
Tomorrow morning I am going on a boat ride to see the morning cremations.

A note on the Ganges river. The MOST polluted river in the world. The Ganges has 1.5 million faecal bacterium per 100 mL. Water that is considered safe for SWIMMING has 500 bacterium per 100 mL. Indians not only swim, bathe, and do their laundry in the river, but they also drink it and worship it. It has Kate and I scared to brush our teeth or shower. I look down and think, "Is the water running into the drain brown because I am dirty or is it brown because. . ."

This is not a fun thought.

Other than that. I love India! It is crazy crowded and super dirty, but it has a charm. Maybe it is the reminder to be grateful for where I was born or maybe it is the will of so many people who physically struggle just to survive a single day, but for whatever reason it is an inspiring place and you can get pants tailor made for $5. I got 3 pairs! I may get more tomorrow or maybe shirts. . .

3 comments:

Anonymous said...

No, it's you. You are filthy. Why are we even discussing this?

Anonymous said...

Hey! You took Jim off and made Eyis your contact! Oooooooooooooo!

heh heh heh!

Heather said...

Gramps, are you harassing me on my own blog?

Up next:US of A, the Bahamas, and moving to Sydney